14.02.05 - 14:44

OUR TRIP TO MALI PART 3

Day Seven: Jan. 2 Sevare - Bandiagara - Djiguibombo - Kani-Kombole

We took a fume-choked taxi brousse to Bandiagara, eating a breakfast of beignet, guava, and mango on the way. In Bandiagara, we went to the Catholic mission to find a guide for Dogon country. We sat in on the end of the church service (as it was Sunday); there were pictures of a black Jesus in the stations of the cross and the hymns were sung in Bambara and accompanied by drums. The only word I understood was "Hallelujah." Pere Yves, the only white guy in the service, apart from us, asked us to introduce ourselves to the congregation. I was glad I remembered how to cross myself; it made me look legit.

After the service, the clerks at the mission introduced us to Magou Cham, who agreed to be our guide for a mere 10,000cfa per day each. after running some errands, we all drove to Djiguibombo to commence our tour. Magou made us a splendid lunch of omelets, salad, and a tea infusion, featuring lemon, kinkiliba, and a lemongrass-type herb. Then, we walked around Diguibombo - our first Dogon village! We saw:

* Granaries - Every household has them for storage. They resemble Pulaar adobe huts, although they are more squarish. The big ones with one window are for males; the smaller ones with three windows are for females.

* A traditional medicine house, whose front was comprised of a dozen windows/shelves to store medicines.

* Village meeting places - round pavillions with thatched roofs and many wood supports. There are large stones on which to sit, with holes bored into them for a game somewhat like mancala. The center of the pavillion is empty, so as to accomodate millet beer.

* Old men, to whom we gave kola nuts as a sort of "thank you" for being able to take pictures. Apparently, kola nuts are addictive and chock full of caffeine.

After Diguibombo, we strapped on our backpacks and took a 5km hike to Kani-Kombole. The first bit was flat and along a road, but then we approached the edge of the great cliff, around which many Dogon villages are situated. We hiked down the cliff along a steep and challenging path (except for Andrew, who apparently is some sort of hiking genius.) Still, it was gorgeous scenery, and a nice hike.

We came to Kani-Kombole, where we spent the night. I went on a walk outside the village and found a large baobab. Baobabs are sacred to the Dogon, being maternal entities. I crawled into the hollow trunk. Looking up, I saw the sky. I thought of Meursault in "L'etranger" what he says about spending the rest of his life in the hollow of a tree.

In any case, Magou made roast chicken and savory couscous for dinner. Despite the cold and the jeers of Malians, Hectorvieve and I slept on the roof of the transit house. It was a bit nippy, but I was toasty in my sleeping bag cocoon and waking up to the vista of that grand hazy cliff the next morning was worth it.

previous - next