08.06.06 - 14:39

TRIP UP NORTH 1: Atar

The main reason for my trip up north was to assist in a series of AIDS seminars. Espoir et Vie sent two respresentatives, Hussein and Patrick, to work with PCV Alison on AIDS education. (As a sidenote, Hussein wore white tank tops under his boubou the ENTIRE TIME we were in Atar, protesting that the weather was too hot to wear anything else. Indeed, he packed no proper shirts at all. He even made the trip to Atar wearing SHORTS, as is demonstrated in the first photo of the "Trip Up North" photo album. Yes, the weather was hot. But you shall all no doubt notice that Alison and I are attired in proper business wear: head, shoulders, knees (and almost toes) covered. Another double standard, curse them.)

Anywho. The first two seminars were given at the local high school. Despite his attire, Hussein performed admirably. I'm amazed at his ability to connect with his various audiences about such a sensitive topic as AIDS. This comes across even when he speaks Hassaniya. His voice grew loud and strident, then soft and delicate. Every once in a while, the listening students would laugh at some joke I am at least 3 years of intensive Hassaniya study away from understanding.

Could we talk about condoms? No, not really. There was some batting-about of the nebulous term "protection," but that was it. Still, Hussein was surrounded by students asking questions at the end of his presntation. One boy apparetly even asked if it was OK that he was still a virgin. Was he abnormal? Thank God SOMEONE can talk frankly about these issues.

The next seminar was given for the girl's mentoring center in Atar. Again, Hussein had an emotional rapport with the teenage girls that I had not expected was possible. The most troubling bit of information to come from the meeting was this: One of the girls had just been married. She found her husband having sex with another woman. Now, she does not want to have sex with her husband because of the risk of AIDS, but she is afraid to tell her mother what had happened because of possible repercussions. What can she do?

Of course, as usual, there's no good response. A married woman asking her husband to use condoms? Apparently, those types of demands can get you beaten. Alas.

The last seminar was given for a group of tourist guides, a sector known for its promiscuity, especially with ugly European woman who come to Africa to get hot young men. Sorry for the crassness - I call it like I see it. (PS, young lady from Ouadane, 1. oversized tee shirts belted at the waist with not one but TWO fanny packs only emphasize your ample paunch, and 2. It's a Muslim country. Could we leave the stretch pants at home and keep our hands off the young local man? Thanks.)

There is actually a version of the Typhoid Mary urban legend going around - a European tourist convinces a guide to have sex with her without a condom so she can have a "souvenir of Africa." When he awakens, she is gone, but has left a note saying "Welcome to Club AIDS."

The seminar also went well. I even spoke a little, explaining that AIDS was first studied in the homosexual population of San Francisco, but did not BEGIN there, as everyone keeps saying here. (Hush hush, now, I continued to soothe myself. There's an order to things. Women's Rights need to make a couple of leaps forward before we can start on Gay Rights.
Maslow's hierarchy of needs, and all that.)

The one faux pas was the condom distribution - one of the participants got ahold of a box of our condoms and, through a series of miscommunications, began handing them out. This caused QUITE the stir. Much shouting. Finally, Hussein managed to placate the Conservative Ones by explaining the miscommunication. "The Peace Corps would never give away condoms like that on purpose! Look at her!" (gesturing at me) "She even has her head covered! She's more conservative than you are!"

We chalked it up to a learning experience, though certain PCVs (Patty's boy among them) brought up the very valid question of WHY we couldn't simply give out life-saving condoms. As PCVs, we have easy and unquestioned access to them. How can we be serious about the fight against AIDS if we don't take a stand for condom distribution, the single most powerful tool?

It made me realize how far I've come in accepting the realities of AIDS in Mauritania. For better or worse, I don't question the reason why we can't mention condoms. That's just how it is, and doing it any other way could jeopardize the reputations of both Peace Corps and Espoir et Vie.

Let's just hope everyone in the US is learning to take advantage of the freedom to discuss reproductive health and protection. Let's protect our children by giving them all the tools they need to be well-informed, safe, and, (EVENTUALLY, when the time is right for them) romantically and sexually fulfilled.

God(dess) knows little of that exists here.

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